Since the moment a rather oversized Volvo hit the narrow winding streets of the Kangra Valley, home to Dharamsala, the local population are well aware that the IPL party is back in town. Of course, there can be no better initiation to IPL-4 than seeing Preity Zinta and Adam Gilchrist sitting and chatting on the front street of the bus that honks and twists and turns its away slowly up the hill to the team hotel. It is now six days since we have landed here, and two delectable victories aside, time has been filled by a lot of activity and inactivity.

Hotel Blues

Cricketers have gotten used to spending long hours in hotels, especially when they play under the cover of heavy security which limits their movement and going out becomes a chore with advance approvals and escorts needed. So till ennui becomes unbearable, most players prefer to spend their time at the hotel. Of course two matches in three days after we land also means that there isn’t too much potential for exploring the hills, but it is the time in between practice and the matches that turns out to be difficult to fill. The biggest issue is poor internet connectivity which prevents players from killing hours on Facebook and Youtube and while the issue never gets completely resolved, the hotel staff come up with some sort of a solution by making a laptop with a data card available for players to use.

TV becomes a life support device and conversation around the lobby has increased. It helps that there are not many outsiders staying here so autograph and picture seekers are numbered and venturing out of the room is consequently less hazardous. And thus the time crawls by even within a hectic schedule. After the RCB game is done and dusted though, everyone decides that they have seen enough of a limited view and utilize the three days they have before the next match making the most of a charming destination.

A Party in the Mountains

After our second win in Dharamsala and fourth on the trot, the team decides to party hard for a bit, with there being a mini-break before the last game. McLeod Ganj is a crowded place late into the night as scores of people wait at the gates hoping to get in. When I do eventually wade through the crowd and get into the party, being a genuine invited guest and all, I find a crowded rooftop with familiar faces all taking a well earned break from a punishing schedule. Many of the players are there as are many others who work day and night to ensure that an event of this scale goes through without glitches even at a relatively remote location like this one. The mood is relaxed, the rooftop ideal for the surprisingly warm night and conversations and beers flow around. The music changes from the peppy to the soft and melodious and back to reflect the state of the gathering which swings between high energy and high fatigue. It is just the break everyone needs before it is back to being ready for one last go at the knock-outs. There are a couple of people knocked out tonight as well but it is a rather happier type of knock out as the celebrations end quite after bed time.

Eat, Pray, Shop

Since we set out on tour, most of our meals have been had at hotels or different cricket grounds across the country. Not really a cause to grumble, given that the food has been largely delicious, yet one does crave to explore nice cafes and restaurants all over town. Dharamsala has given us just that opportunity. On relatively free afternoons you will find it difficult to miss a cricketer or two walking by you into the next cafe or restaurant. The streets of McLeod Ganj are lined with eating joints and Restaurant McLLo with its multiple cuisine options is a particular favorite of the players. Another popular spot is called Out of the Blue in Dharamkot, a few kilometres beyond McLeod Ganj. Situated on the slope of a hill, it offers a glorious view as you munch into their delicious pizza or tear apart a fried piece of chicken.

The Tsuglagkhang Complex which houses the monastery of the Dalai Lama is well visited and the fascinating elements of Tibetan Buddhism including groups of chanting monks, prayer wheels, large prayer halls etc. bring a sense of peace that snaps one out of cricket for the first time since this tournament started, albeit briefly. Other temples visited by different sets of players are the Kunal Pathari Temple dedicated to the local Goddess and the famous Bhagsu Nag Temple dedicated to the Snake God and Lord Shiva. A delightful diversion from the Bhagsu Nag temple is a waterfall and a number of players including skipper Gilly make the most of the opportunity to enjoy a cool dip to beat the hot sun.

Shopping is another popular time consumption activity. Shawls, prayer flags, prayer wheels, trinkets are popular items that are purchased as is the Tibetan singing Bowl which emanates a sound resembling Om when played. The most interesting purchase is by someone from the KXIP staff, a small Dholak. We are told that a larger one was not purchased after some persuasion and heart break as the practical difficulties of carrying it back were highlighted.